The pretty riverbank town of Dalyan, 27 km (17 miles) west of Dalaman Airport (map), is quite different from other resort towns on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast.
People come for its setting on the placid Dalyan River, for the dramatic Lycian tombs hewn into the rockfaces that dominate the town on the west bank of the river, for the ruins of the ancient Roman city of Caunos, and for broad İztuzu Beach, a natural nesting-ground for Carretta Carretta (loggerhead turtles).
Upstream, on the shore of placid Köyceğiz Lake, is the Sultaniye hot springs, with their therapeutic (or at least fun) mud baths.
Many of the fields surrounding this farming town now grow new hotels, and the smooth-flowing creek is often thronged with excursion boats both local and from as far away as Fethiye and Marmaris.
Even so, Dalyan is still an interesting place to stop for one or two days.
To the west of the PTT across a park is the riverside docks from which motorboats leave for İztuzu Beach, Köyceğiz Lake, and day excursions that include a river cruise, a swim in the lake, a stop at the Sultaniye hot springs, the ruins of the Roman city of Caunos, and İztuzu Beach. Every Saturday is Market day for Dalyan.
By the way, Köyceğiz has its weekly market on Monday, and Ortaca has it’s on Friday.
Further afield, you can take a minibus east to Göcek, halfway to Fethiye, to board a day excursion boat for a sailing cruise of the 12 Islands in the bay of Fethiye.
If you prefer the mountains, day trip minibusses leave Dalyan for Yuvarlak Çay, a mountain forest stream that provides a peaceful respite from the town.
İztuzu Beach
Top choice Beach in Dalyan
An excellent swimming beach, İztuzu (Turtle) Beach is one of the Mediterranean nesting sites of the loggerhead turtle, and special rules to protect it are enforced. Although the beach is open to the public during the day, night-time visits (8 pm to 8 am) are prohibited from May to September. A line of wooden stakes on the beach indicates the nest sites, and visitors are asked to keep behind them to avoid disturbing the nests.
Sea Turtle Research, Rescue & Rehabilitation Centre
At the southern end of İztuzu Beach is the headquarters of this turtle rescue center, established in 2009 largely through the influence of English woman June Haimoff, who campaigned for years to save this beach from development. You’ll find good information displays about turtles and a short film to watch. This center has saved many loggerhead and green turtles, and you’ll see 30kg to 40kg turtles injured by fishing hooks, nets and boat propellers being treated.
Kaunos
Archaeological Site in Dalyan
Founded in the 9th century BC, Kaunos (also spelled Caunus) was an important Carian city by 400 BC. On the border with Lycia, its culture reflected aspects of both empires.
On the left, as you enter, the theatre is well preserved; on the hill above are remnants of an acropolis and fabulous views over the surrounding countryside. Straight ahead when you enter are impressive ruins of a Roman bath and a 6th-century church, while down the slope is the port agora.
There are good information panels on-site in English and Turkish. Board one of the private rowing boats moored next to It will take you across the river to the teensy settlement of Çandır, from where you can walk uphill to Kaunos in 20 minutes.
Kings’ Tombs
Dalyan’s famous Carian rock tombs are carved into cliffs across the Dalyan River, southwest of the center. You can get good views of the tombs by walking south from town along Maraş Caddesi to the western end of Kaunos Sokak. Alternatively, board one of the private rowing boats moored next to it will take you across the river to the teensy settlement of Çandır, from where it’s a five-minute walk to the tombs.
It’s usually not possible to climb right up to the tombs, as access is fenced off.